Installing 1999-2001 Mustang Dual Piston calipers on Older Fords

Installing 1999-2001 Mustang Dual Piston calipers on Older Fords

by Earl Hayes

Pictures at bottom of this page

To do this conversion I am using Granada spindles.
It is quit possible it may be easier to use your original spindles.
A 1/4” or 5/16” steel plate will be needed to make the mounting bracket.
I would only use grade 5 or better bolts for mounting.
Anyone that has good common sense and some basic tools like a drill press and a welder can do it.
If you don’t have them, you can take measurements easily enough and have them made at a machine shop regardless of what spindle you use.
To use the Granada spindle however, it is a lot easier if the spindle is off of the car as you can see in the pictures.
The original caliper mount is held on by 2 bolts. Remove it because you won’t need it anymore.
With the rotor mounted on the spindle you will see the two bolt holes from where the old caliper mount was.
1 on the top facing towards the rear of the spindle and 1 on the bottom facing the back of the rotor.
With the pads installed in the Mustang caliper and mounting bracket, slip the caliper over the rotor.
You may want to shoot some compressed air into the brake hose hole to snug the caliper up on the rotor.
Position the lower mounting hole on the spindle where it matches the hole on the caliper mounting bracket.
You will need a spacer between them.
It measures 7/8” thick. You can make it out of a piece of 1 1/4 round stock and drill a 15/32 hole through it.
The mounting bracket uses metric bolts which I can’t remember the exact size.
Length is 1 1/2” long on the lower and 1” long on the upper.
With the spacer in place (you will need to hold it ) install the bolt and lock washer snug enough to where you can still move the caliper but is seated properly.
Position the caliper on the rotor where it is square top and bottom.
Make sure the distance between the caliper mount and the edge of the rotor is the same on the top and bottom.
Tighten the lower bolt down. Now you can now see that an “L” bracket is required on the top. The bolt holes are somewhat offset.
Use 1/4” steel to make the bracket! With the “L” bracket about 2” long, hold it in place and mark through the spindle where it will need to be drilled.
The hole needs to be 1/2”. After doing that, take a 1/2” bolt 2 1/2” long and locknut (or weld a nut to the inside of the bracket) and install the bracket snugly.
This will allow you to figure out where the other hole will need to be drilled to bolt the “L” bracket to the caliper.
A little guesswork is needed here. After that is done and all of the bolts are installed and tightened,
re check all of your clearances and make sure the rotor spins freely and everything is square.
While spinning the rotor, shoot compressed air into the caliper
again and you will see any problems that may occur.
The measurements I gave are extremely close but it doesn't hurt to double check.
As I stated, use grade 5 or better bolts.
I always use good lockwashers and Loctite. So should you.
I am using these calipers on all 4 corners.
The master cyl I use is an aluminum unit for a 87 Ford Ranger.
You may want to use an adjustable proportioning valve if running disc’s on all 4 corners. Please don't Email me on this tip because I don't have anymore info.

Click Here for a Drawing of Brackets